800 Pound Microbrewery?

A recent report on the AP wire says that beer sales are recovering after some recent loss of market share to wine makers. The report attributes the resurgence of beer sales to better packaging and “fun” marketing. See, wine marketers have apparently been capitalizing on the fun factor with cute critters and clever designs on the labels as well as interesting packaging such as cans and party boxes. So beer, and by beer here I mean megabreweries like Anheuser-Busch, Coors, etc., is doing the same. Lately, says AC Neilsen beer expert Nick Lake, "If they didn't have the brand in some ads - a Budweiser ad, a Miller Lite ad, a Coors ad - if they didn't have the can in it, it could be any one of the three."

So what does beer do? Well, new packaging, of course. Coors has developed a new “cooler box” filled with 18 oz. bottles and designed to be filled with ice and Budweiser has come up with some sort of aluminum bottle.

Beer snobs, I know what you’re thinking and I agree. Repackaged American light megabrewery style beer is still American light megabrewery style beer. But Anheuser-Busch is up to more than repackaging the same old stuff. I’m sure you’ve seen the Bud Select in the stores. They are also coming out with some cleverly labeled “microbrewed” products including Stone Mill Pale Ale and Wild Hop Lager both certified organic.

I came across some of it the other day at Buffalo Wild Wings. Hot wings were involved so I can’t give proper tasting notes but I tasted a wheat, some sort of spiced wheat, and a dry stout. All three were AB products. All three seemed like sincere if uninspired attempts at the real thing. The spiced wheat was a little strange. It seemed overloaded with cloves but remember I had capsaicin on my lips so I’m really not sure. The dry stout seemed a little sweet but it was black and velvety and I enjoyed a full pint after the bartender gave me a taste.

Another thing that AB has been up to is trying to coordinate a general pro-beer campaign with other brewers – think “Got Milk?” They haven’t been able to stir up a lot of cooperation so far.

But are they doing anything that hasn’t already been done? Clever packaging is nothing new. There is always some new way of dispensing the same stuff in all markets and industries. And what of AB putting out something besides watery Pilsner? Haven’t craft brewers and the traditional brewers in England and Europe been doing this for years? Yes but AB has such a marketing reach that I have to wonder if all of this might contribute to a second craft brewing revolution like the one of the mid nineties.

I’m not predicting, just wondering. It will be interesting to watch.